The article written by Eric J. Horst was provided by a friend. I translated it roughly.
Is Climbing The Best Training For Climbing?
Is climbing the best training method for climbing?
It's an old adage that "climbing is the best training for climbing," and many climbers lean on this line as an excuse for not engaging in any training activities outside of climbing itself. Let's examine this precept and determine, once and for all, if It is valid.
There is a popular saying that "Climbing is the best climbing training." Many climbers do not do any training other than climbing. Let us examine whether it is positive if it is valid.
When I am asked the question "Is climbing the best training for climbing", my canned answer is-- "it depends." This is because the best type of training for a given climber depends on his or her current strengths and weaknesses as well As current of absolute training ability. For instance, in terms of improving climbing technique and mental skills, no amount of strength training will produce direct improvements in these areas. However, for developing sport-specific strength (ie conditioning to improve grip strength, lock- Off ability, and endurance of upper body strength), simply "climbing for training" will produce limited results and only slow (or no) improvement from year to year. Sound familiar?
When I was asked "Climbing is the best climbing training?" I would say "see the situation." This is because the best training type for a particular climber is based on his or her current strengths and weaknesses and the current absolute climbing ability. For example, when it comes to improving climbing skills and psychological skills, strength training will not produce direct improvements in these areas. However, simply "climbing for training" to develop specific movement forces (such as training to increase grip strength, locking force, and upper body endurance) can only have a limited effect, or progress slowly year after year. Did these words seem to have been heard?
One reason that climbing is not the best method of strength training is because the ultimate goals of “training†versus “climbing†are very different. For instance, the goal in climbing is to avoid muscular failure at all costs and, hopefully, reach the Top of a boulder problem or climb before the arm and forearm muscles pump out. Conversely, when training for climbing it is often best to exercise at the highest possible intensity and produce muscular failure in a few minutes, if not a few seconds. Summarizing- -in climbing, you strive to avoid failure; in training, you tend to pursue failure.
One of the reasons that climbing is not the best strength training method is because the ultimate goal of “training†versus “climbing†is very different. For example, the purpose of climbing is to find ways to avoid muscle exhaustion and hopefully reach its peak before the muscles of the arms and forearms are exhausted. Conversely, training for rock climbing is usually the best practice to do the highest possible intensity in a matter of seconds or minutes to produce muscle exhaustion. In summary, in climbing, you are trying to avoid failure; while in training, you tend to fail.
Another example that underscores the difference between climbing and training for climbing is the way in which you grip the rock. In climbing, the rock dictates a random use of many different spoon positions and, at times, you may even intentionly vary the way you grip The rock. As a result, it's unlikely that any single grip position will ever get worked maximally and, therefore, the individual grip positions (eg crimp, open hand, pinch, etc.) are slow to increase strength. This should help you understand Why a full season of climbing may indeed improve your anaerobic endurance (ie endurance of strength), but do little to increase you absolute maximum grip strength. For training maximum grip strength. Effective finger strength training demands you target a specific grip position and work it until failure (See HIT Workouts ).
Another example that can reveal the difference between climbing and training is how you hold the rock. In rock climbing, rock means a random use of some different gripping postures. Sometimes, you may even deliberately change the way you hold rocks. As a result, any single gripping gesture is unlikely to achieve maximum effectiveness, so a certain gripping gesture (eg, crisp, open hand, pinch, etc.) only slowly increases strength. This will help you understand why an entire year climber may indeed need to increase your anaerobic endurance (such as strength stamina), but less to increase your absolute maximum grip strength. Therefore, changing different grip postures to maximize endurance is a good strategy for performance climbing, but it is a bad idea to train the maximum grip. Effective finger strength training requires you to determine a clear grip position as a goal, to do until exhausted. (See HIT Workouts)
As a final note, it may be best for some climbers to engage in physical conditioning that is not sport-specific in nature. For example, an overweight individual would be better off spending their non-climbing training time performing aerobic exercise (and, of Course, improve their dietary surveillance) Likewise, some “way out-of-shape†individual (ie unable to do even a few pull-ups, push-ups, abdominal crunches, etc.) would Be better off engaging in a period of standard circuit training to improve general conditioning.
Finally, for some climbers, it may be best to perform natural physical training that is not a sport specific item. For example, an overweight person who does aerobic exercise on non-climbing training (and, of course, improves their dietary control) will be better than a sport-specific climbing exercise. Similarly, some "unstructured" individuals (for example, can't even do several pull-ups, push-ups, sit-ups, etc.) undergo a period of standard training cycles to improve overall physical condition would be better.
In the final analysis, if you are serious about climbing performance you must not be assured simply "climbing for training", nor can you mindless adhere to old adages or train in the flawed ways as most other climbers do. Becoming the best (and strongest ) climber possible demands that you become a knowledgeable self-coach and thoughtful practitioner of “training for climbing.â€
Finally, if you are very concerned about the performance of climbing, you must not satisfy the simple "climbing is training". You can't follow the old creeds without thinking or be as defective as most other climbers. Way to train. To be a best (and strongest) climber may require you to become a knowledgeable self-trainer and fully thinking "climbing training" practitioner.
Copyright 2005 Eric J. Horst. All rights reserved.
2005 Eric J. Horst. copyright for
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