Technical analysis of 4 summit routes of Siguniang Mountain sisters peak
Are respectively
1. Japan's Hiroshima Mountain Summit Team 9 June-July 1992 South Wall 7-person summit in three batches
2. British mountaineering team 2 April 2002 Straight northbound (new route) Peak climbers: Mike Fowler, Paul Ramsden
3. : In 1994, Charlie Fowler of the United States climbed from the single south wall to the southeast ridge route (new route).
All climbing the mountain is the top player in the world
Jack tackle, Jim donini, Kim Schmitz, Jim Sutton, Kate Bull, Steve Wills, Keith Brown, Charlie Fowler, Marco Milani, Mike Fowler, Paul Ramsden... Each one is an excellent alpinist climber.
The south-south route to the southeastern ridge (the first Japanese team to board in 1981): This route is characterized by full coverage of ice and snow on the climbing route, and the steepest point of the ice-snow slope is not less than 60 degrees.
From Changpinggou into the mountains, building a base camp in Ganhaizi, BC is about 3,500 meters above sea level;
ABC is about 4,500 meters above sea level, leading to C1 through the gravel area into the glacier area, there are bright and dark cracks on the glaciers;
C1 is about 5,200 meters above sea level. C1 starts from the trough and goes straight up. In the rock ditch building, the rope ladder turns over 5300 meters to the bottom of the rock wall. The stone avalanche in this passage is concentrated, the bottom of the rock wall is cut to the left, there is bright ice on the rock wall, about 70 degrees, to avoid the falling rock on the top. Going upwards, the left side of the steep rock wall is often accompanied by a falling rock avalanche, and the right side is a steep snow slope. For safety, a rock cone is used for protection on the rock face. It is necessary to climb a 45-degree ice slope that is about 40 meters long and goes straight up to 120 meters. The snow wall of the segment reaches the submarine-like rock in the heart of the trough. Note that this route has about 20 meters of weathered rock piles. From the bottom of the submarine rock to the center, the average slope is 45 degrees. Before reaching the first step, it needs to climb a steep snow ridge. There is a bladed ridge on the pinnacle of 5620 meters. After reaching the first step, it is built at an elevation of 5750 meters. C2.
The location of C2 is about 5750 meters. Cross over 50 meters on a steep snow surface, reach the third level, and then straight up 20 meters to the snowy ridge line. In the snow ridge ridge line 15 meters to the shoulder, from here to the right line, along the ridge edge of the mushroom-shaped ice pack, you need to climb 8 pitch. After turning over the top of the mushroom-shaped ice pack, straight down the 45-50 degree snow ridge, there is a small mushroom-shaped ice pack forward. At 6,100 meters, you can see a huge diamond 50-60 meters high. The ice tower, which is a wide slope, is a snow slope that is less than 45 degrees from the right side of the diamond ice tower.
The final difficulty is to pass through the avalanche channel and reach the apex after crossing the snow.
Equipment: Approximately 2000 meters of fixed ropes, rock cones, ice cones must be used.
The south wall rises straight to the southeastern ridge route (SOLO, 1994): This route is characterized by a huge glacial ice trough along the south wall, which climbs to the southeast ridge at the shoulder of 5800m. The remaining route coincides with the route from south to southeast ridge. .
The southwestern southwestern ridge course (opened by the Japanese team in 1992): This course is characterized by less ice and snow on the southwestern ridge, and the vertical rock texture on the route is terrible, with a steep slope and requiring more rock operations.
From Changpinggou into the mountains, build a large camp in dry Haizi, 3550 meters above sea level;
From the small ditch to the west ridge, the establishment of the forward camp of 4,600 meters, where you can observe the climbing route;
C1 is built on a platform on the southwestern ridge of the South Wall and is about 4,900 meters above sea level. 4800 meters of transitional camp is built on the way.
C25200 meters
C35450 meters
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