1900-1949
In 1903, the British Frank Yang Hessben led a British mountaineering team to reconnoitre the Everest region for the first time.
In 1913, Captain John Noll tried to find the best route into the country from Tibet.
In 1921, the British mountaineering team (Captain Hawadebari) climbed Mount Everest from the Tibetan side for the first time. They claimed that the height reached was 6,985 meters. Because they were unsuccessful, they called it a reconnaissance mountaineering activity.
In 1922, the British mountaineering team captain (Je Bruce) crossed the northern foot along the northern route, and at the height of 8,225 meters, it failed because of the death of seven Sherpas.
On August 6, 1924, the British mountaineering team captain (Frank Norton) climbed along the north side. When Norton and others reached 8572 meters below the “Second Step†on the North Slope, they were forced down the mountain due to lack of oxygen. Mallory and Irving insisted on continuing but never returned, becoming the "Mao Mystery" in the history of world mountaineering. Mallory's last words "because the mountain is there" became famous in the mountaineering community. The grief of the British public is like that of Scott who was killed in the Antarctic investigation in 1912.
In 1933, the British mountaineering team consisted of 16 people (captain He Lutoletgi) and climbed along the north route. When Harley and Weigel reached the height of 8570 meters above sea level, they discovered the hail of 1924 Everest team member Owen in the United Kingdom and confirmed that Malorie and others died near this altitude. This year's expedition was financially and organizationally the best at the time: two planes, excellent tents, boots, and clothes, but it wasn’t beautiful and could only be withdrawn.
In 1934, the Britishman M. Wilson used a light aircraft to climb alone. As a result, the plane was damaged near the Kombu glacier. He was slightly injured. Later he hired some local Sherpas to assist the mountaineering. But after a storm, he Was frozen to death on the East Rongbuk Glacier.
In 1935, a seven-member British mountaineering team (captain E. Shipton) climbed to the north slope of Mount Everest in the territory of China and returned 7,000 meters above sea level (near the northern foothills).
In 1936, the British mountaineering team (captain He Lutoletje), composed of ten people, arrived at the top of the northern foothills at an altitude of 7007 meters and returned. (Note: The top of the northern foot had used 7,007 meters in the past. In 1975, the Chinese mountaineering team conducted field surveys. The exact height is calculated to be 7028 meters).
In 1938, a seven-member British mountaineering team (captain Ge. Dillman) still climbed from the northern slope of China's territory and declared failure after reaching an altitude of 8,290 meters above sea level.
In 1947, after the Second World War, the first ever climb of Everest was carried out by a Canadian, Le Dedenmann. He hired local Sherpas to transport and still took the North Slope route but did not exceed the height of 6400 meters above sea level.
In 1949, the Nepalese government first allowed foreign mountaineering teams to climb Everest.
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