Do you trust your own protection? [Photos]
In the movie "Forrest Gump", A-Gump arrived in Vietnam and reported to Dan Chung. Dan leaned on his cigar and said to Forrest Gump: "Rules No.1, get your feet dry; Rules No2, don't do stupid things, like get your self killed !" This is also what I think about this half bottle of Sophomore. Say.
Leisurely at home, nothing to do. Looking at the leg which is like a stick, I have a lot of time to think about what caused the injury. In terms of climbing Trad, the time is not long, but there are also dozens of lines of experience, so far unscathed; climbing ice did not occur several times, but they have come up with the worst injuries in their personal history. Why? I think the attitude is different. When I first started studying Trad, I was thinking about whether I would have problems with every detail. I consulted a lot of accident data to see what other people made mistakes, hoping that I could escape, and even made a website for climbing accidents so that I could update the website and constantly remind him of the existence of danger. When I started learning ice climbing, I unconsciously felt that I was already a Sophomore sophomore, and although I still thought about the dangers, I honestly said that I didn't have the feeling of being frightened. This difference in attitude is the source of the accident. In English, Sophomoric has a half-baked meaning. A bottle of vinegar doesn't shake the bottle of vinegar. God let me eat a bit of bitterness and make me wake up.
My apprenticeship
When the university starts, seniors will always meet new students, and by the way, there will be no PPMM. The new climbing season begins and another group of new students will join Trad Climber. I have spare time. Sophomore, my half bottled vinegar, recalls some of the mistakes I made in the "first grade" and hopes to help the new students.
My first traditional climb was in the western hills of Kunming, following the mh to mechanize the plugs on the rock walls. The first day the mh and the creek did not climb smoothly. When the descent, several equipment were left. We must descend from the top of the rock wall and pick things up. Strictly speaking, we did not climb, but I learned how to use natural protection points, how to do Anchor, how to effectively organize the rope and so on. Things went well and we recovered the plug that had suffered only 10 meters. However, in the first drop, we found the wrong place and went down to another rock, which took 3 hours. When we returned to the top of the hill, the sky was dark and the car back to town was gone. It is said that there are robberies and murders happening in Xishan. Our land to accompany -- Kunming's climber bugs are not at ease. They found a car to drive from the city to Xishan to pick us up.
I still think that climbing the wrong route is very dangerous. The 5.8 route accidentally became a 5.12 or unreachable route. The most terrible is that there is no place for protection. The road to drop down is more troublesome. In the high mountains, this means the difference between emergency camping and comfortable tents, or the difference between life and death. Not long ago, Shanyou, who was missing in Qingliang Mountain, Zhejiang Province, I think he must have gone the wrong way.
My second teacher is Xiaohe. On the Baihe Route 1, he was explaining while leading, and I was following along, climbing another rope with a riser. After that, I took down his protection. Once again, I led the climb and he received the protection I put. After coming down, he pointed out my question:
1. A mechanical plug above the platform has failed. The width of the seam is narrow and wide, because the position is not well selected. The rope leads to the stopper, Walk, and the cam is opened.
2. There is a rock plug I stuck along, the position card is good, but because the direction of the seam is slanting to the left, if the sinker falls and the direction of the force changes, the rock plug may be pulled out. Put protection to consider the direction of force, usually a little outward, but it is also related to the location of the previous protection.
3. There is a good rock plug, but the seam where it is located is formed by a stone piece and the main rock wall. The sinker will have a large external support force, which may cause the entire stone piece to fall off. If possible, the protection should be put. On the main crack.
In this way, my apprenticeship ended and I started climbing. Although I still have a lot to learn, I need to learn more with them to gain experience. But there is no way. The experienced Tradclimber is already small, and it takes time to happen. Even if it is appropriate, people who are not familiar with it will not take it. You play another thing, so you have to rely on yourself. I feel like I was trapped alone in the Amazon jungle, holding the AK47, but the two eyes are black, for fear that a move will be bitten by a snake. During that time, I read a lot of articles on websites such as rec.climb and rockclimbing.com. He listened to the experiences of his predecessors and learned about what could be done and what could not be done, and where the danger was.
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